Papua
New Guinea
Trip Report
31.8 to 18.9.2008
Participants:
Garth Cooksey, William & Nancy Johnson, John Williamson
& Penelope Hacker
Guide: Brian Coates
A complete bird list of the trip can be sent on request
____________________________________________
This was another successful tour despite losing valuable
birding time this year due to delayed and cancelled
flights, unexpected changes by Air Niugini to flight
schedules, and some wet weather. We listed over 300
species and succeeded in seeing many special birds,
some seldom observed, including an excellent total of
23 species of birds of paradise, Flame and Archbold's
Bowerbirds, Shovel-billed Kingfisher, paradise-kingfishers,
Thick-billed Ground-pigeon, Southern Crowned Pigeon,
Bronze Ground-dove, Nicobar Pigeon, Finsch's Imperial-pigeon,
New Britain Buzzard and Bismarck Kingfisher.
Port
Moresby area (Varirata National Park)
Our
first day in the field was 1 September, due to the unscheduled
late arrival of the Air Niugini Brisbane-Port Moresby
flight on 31 August. Beginning in early daylight, we
spent most of this day birding in hill forest in Varirata
National Park, where we walked several trails. A delightful
Yellow-billed Kingfisher greeted us at the entrance
gate with trilled calls and great views. This was soon
followed by a strikingly-coloured Hooded Pitohui - the
first-known poisonous bird, a Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrike,
Pink-spotted Fruit-doves, and noisy Red-cheeked Parrots.
A short time later, farther into the park, a cacophony
of loud calls announced the presence of several splendid
fully-plumed male Raggiana Birds of Paradise at their
lek. Here we watched enthralled as two males displayed
in synchrony.
Other
special birds seen during the day included a stunning
Brown-headed Paradise-kingfisher, colourful Western
Black-capped Lories, a gorgeous male Papuan King-parrot,
Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Boyer's Cuckoo-shrikes, Sharpe's
Cicadabird, Rusty Mouse-warbler, Chestnut-bellied Fantail,
White-faced Robin, Helmeted Friarbirds, Tawny-breasted
Honeyeaters, Puff-backed Honeyeater, Papuan Flowerpecker,
Grey-bellied Longbill, Black-fronted White-eyes, Yellow-faced
Mynas, Brown Orioles, a female-plumaged Magnificent
Riflebird, and noisy Bare-eyed Crows. Several Streak-headed
Honeyeaters were also seen. This interesting but rather
drab bird is a visual and vocal mimic of the larger,
much commoner Brown Oriole that is in turn a visual
and vocal mimic of the larger Helmeted Friarbird.
As
is always the case with rainforest birding a number
of birds were heard but not seen, such as White-crowned
Koel and Crested Pitohui. Hook-billed Kingfisher, usually
a crepuscular species, was calling during the day but
remained frustratingly well hidden amid foliage. Also
stubbornly remaining unseen nearby despite persistent
attempts to lure them into view were Chestnut-backed
Jewel-babbler, Painted Quail-thrush and Northern Ground-robin.
At the end of the day we birded along the entrance road
through eucalyptus savanna. Among the birds seen in
this habitat were a Collared Sparrowhawk on its nest,
Blue-winged Kookaburra, Leaden Flycatchers, Lemon-bellied
Flycatchers, White-bellied Whistler and White-throated
Honeyeaters.
Kiunga
area
The following morning we departed Port Moresby for Kiunga,
via Daru, expecting to arrive at our destination around
mid-day. On arrival at Daru, however, our aircraft became
unserviceable due to a fault with its landing gear and
it seemed we would be stranded there until the following
day. Whilst waiting for news of new flight arrangements
we derived a little comfort from observing birds on
the Daru airfield. These included Gull-billed Terns,
Australian Pratincoles and six species of migrant shorebirds.
Eventually, to our great relief, in the late afternoon
a specially diverted plane arrived to take us on to
Kiunga.
The next morning, 3 September, we set off early for
Boystown Road in a 4WD vehicle, together with legendary
Kiunga birding guide Samuel Kepuknai. Heavy rain during
the previous days had made some sections of the road
difficult to traverse and eventually, just short of
our birding site, we became bogged in deep mud! Undaunted
and eager not to lose more birding time, we completed
our journey on foot. Happily, from our vantage point
atop the 'grassy knoll', we got to see two stunning
males of our target bird, the Flame Bowerbird, perched
and in flight. Other birding highlights of the morning
here included a handsome Grey-headed Goshawk, Beautiful
Fruit-dove, a male Long-billed Cuckoo calling from its
treetop perch in response to Sam's whistles, Papuan
Spine-tailed Swifts that zoomed past us at close range,
Pinon & Zoe Imperial-pigeons, Papuan Mountain-pigeons,
Yellow-streaked Lories, tiny Yellow-capped Pygmy-parrots
in flight, Orange-breasted & Double-eyed Fig-parrots,
a pair of Red-cheeked Parrots at their nest-hole, Eclectus
Parrot, Moustached Tree-swifts, Blyth's Hornbill, Meyer's
Friarbird, Plain Honeyeater, Black Sunbird, and Glossy-mantled
& Trumpet Manucodes.
After a lunch break in Kiunga we spent the afternoon
birding the area known as K17 (because it's 17 km along
the road from Kiunga). The highlight at this location
was the wonderful spectacle of a group of male Greater
Birds of Paradise displaying at their lek, along with
a male Raggiana Bird of Paradise and several hybrid
male Greater x Raggiana Birds of Paradise. Other special
birds here, not seen previously on the trip, included
the miniature Dwarf Fruit-dove, Purple-tailed Imperial-pigeon,
Palm Cockatoo and Yellow-bellied Longbill.
Our destination the next day was Ekame Lodge, where
we stayed for one night. To reach Ekame entails travelling
by boat up the mighty Fly River and its tributary the
Elevala River, where the lodge is located. Our intended
pre-dawn departure from the Guest House for the river
was delayed by the late arrival of our transfer vehicle.
So by the time we reached the Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise
site we were too late to see the adult male on his display
perch. An immature male in female plumage performed
in his absence! The next morning we did, however, have
views of a splendid adult male displaying to a female
near Ekame Lodge. Spotting birds in comfort from the
boat while travelling to and from the lodge is always
a pleasurable experience. Among the many birds seen
perched in riverside trees or flying over, were Collared
& Pinon Imperial-pigeons, Palm Cockatoos, Eclectus
Parrots, Channel-billed Cuckoos, Moustached Tree-swifts,
Blyth's Hornbills, numerous Dollarbirds (soon to depart
for Australia), Bare-eyed Crows and Glossy-mantled Manucodes.
This was how Sam found the magnificent Southern Crowned
Pigeon for us, a great highlight of the trip for everyone
as it's a very sought after, 'must see' bird.
The water level in the Elevala was again very high this
year, due to heavy rains in the mountains. And again
this made it easy to get in and out of the boat, instead
of clambering up muddy riverbanks, but it also made
it very difficult to walk into the flooded forest and
find birds. We did eventually see the Common Paradise-kingfisher
and also, after a hike through an area of elevated forest
(which was unexpectedly infested with leeches!), a cracking
male King Bird of Paradise in his display tree.
Ekame Lodge consists of two buildings in a clearing
in rainforest, by the river, made out of local timbers
and bamboo. The accommodation here is basic (including
pit toilets), however, nature is all around and it's
great to fall asleep with the sounds of the jungle.
Other birds seen around the lodge and along the rivers
included the shy, often heard but seldom seen Yellow-legged
Brush-turkey, the seldom observed Thick-billed Ground-pigeon
(flushed from its nest and egg), Pesquet's (Vulturine)
Parrots, Orange-breasted & Double-eyed Fig-parrots,
Lesser Black Coucal, Uniform Swiftlets, Papuan Spine-tailed
Swifts, Rufous-bellied Kookaburras, Golden Cuckoo-shrikes,
Spot-winged & Frilled Monarchs, White-bellied Pitohuis,
Yellow-eyed Starlings and Golden Mynas. Among the furtive
species heard but not seen, despite our efforts, were
Little Paradise-kingfisher, Blue-breasted & Hooded
Pittas and Blue Jewel-babbler.
We returned to Kiunga in the late afternoon.
Tabubil
(Ok Tedi) region
We departed Kiunga on 6 September and drove to Tabubil,
seeing Dusky Lories and an impressive congregation of
at least 20 Blyth's Hornbills on the way. Nearing Tabubil,
we found the local form of Little Ringed Plover; this
is a potential split from the Eurasian form because
of several differences (its yellow eye-ring goes red
when breeding, it has a complete black breast-band in
all plumages, it has a different call, it doesn't migrate).
We had lunch at our hotel in Tabubil, rested a while
and then went birding, but the rain didn't stop until
late afternoon. Tabubil is well known to be a wet spot,
and the hotel is aptly named 'Cloudlands'! Our birding
highlights were Long-tailed Buzzard, Orange-breasted
Fig-parrots, Sharpe's Cicadabird, Golden Cuckoo-shrike,
Mountain Yellow-eared Honeyeater, Mountain Peltops and
a female-plumaged Carola's Parotia bird of paradise.
A pre-dawn departure the next day, followed by a bumpy
drive, found us birding along the road in continuous
rain. Despite the dismal conditions we were eventually
rewarded, thanks to Sam, with brilliant views of our
target bird, the remarkable and seldom seen Shovel-billed
Kingfisher. In an attempt to escape the rain, we then
drove to another location across the valley. This was
indeed rain-free and here we had nice views of a White-rumped
Robin that responded well to tape playback.
In the afternoon we visited the Ok Menga (ok is the
local word for river) where we had great views of a
pair of Salvadori's Teal, an uncommon endemic duck that
everybody was hoping for. Here we also saw River Flycatchers
and Black Butcherbird, while John was fortunate to see
the Torrent-lark as well.
Kumul
Lodge area
The following day, 8 September, our morning flight from
Tabubil to Mount Hagen was yet again delayed by several
hours! By the time we arrived at Mount Hagen airport
and drove up through Tomba Pass to Kumul Lodge it was
late afternoon - just in time for everyone to see and
photograph from the balcony a splendid adult male Brown
Sicklebill visiting the feeder along with other upper
montane endemics, including delightful Brehm's Tiger-parrots,
Belford's & Common Smoky Honeyeaters, and Mountain
Firetails. A fitting introduction to this very special
and popular birding destination!
As we were staying at Kumul Lodge for 3 nights we visited
several areas, including the mid-montane Lai and Wapenamanda
Valleys. Other birds seen in the magnificent grounds
of the Lodge and along nearby trails were Chestnut Forest-rail,
Bronze Ground-dove, gorgeous Papuan Lorikeets, Island
Thrushes, the fascinating Blue-capped Ifrita, Orange-crowned
Fairy-wrens, Large Scrub-wrens, Dimorphic, Black &
Friendly Fantails, Black-cheeked & White-winged
Robins, Regent & Rufous-naped Whistlers, Grey-streaked
Honeyeaters, Crested & Fan-tailed Berrypeckers,
Archbold's Bowerbird, Lesser Melampitta, an absolutely
stunning male Crested Bird of Paradise, Loria's BoPs,
and female-plumaged Ribbon-tailed Astrapias. Mountain
Owlet-nightjar was heard at night but unfortunately
it did not respond to tape playback.
During our trips down to mid-montane areas we observed
Lesser Birds of Paradise (including fine views of 2
displaying adult males at a lek in the Lai Valley),
Yellow-billed Lorikeets, Mountain Swiftlets, Long-tailed
Shrikes, Pied Chats, Brown-breasted Gerygone, Papuan
Grassbird, River Flycatchers, Black-headed Whistler,
Ornate & Mountain Red-headed Honeyeaters, Slaty-chinned
Longbill, New Guinea White-eyes, Hooded Mannikins and
Blue-faced Parrot-finches.
Ambua
Lodge and Tari area
Our run of bad luck with flights in PNG hit rock bottom
when our MAF (Missionary Aviation Fellowship) charter
flight from Mount Hagen to Tari on 11 September was
cancelled with very little notice. In order to reach
our next destination, Ambua Lodge, we spent most of
the day driving on the Highlands Highway. Along the
way we added Yellow-breasted Bowerbird and Buff-banded
Rail to our list. Once again we arrived at our destination
in the late afternoon.
Ambua - what a great place! Here in the highlands surrounded
by montane rainforest the temperature is perfect, the
beautifully designed accommodation is first rate, and
the birding is exciting. In the lodge gardens a fruiting
tree was attracting several species of bird of paradise:
female-plumaged Stephanie's Astrapias, male and female
Lawes' Parotias, female Superb Bird of Paradise, female
Blue Bird of Paradise and, best of all, a seldom observed
male Buff-tailed Sicklebill. Here also we observed New
Guinea Wood-swallows, Yellow-browed Melidectes Honeyeaters,
Common Smoky Honeyeaters, Mountain Peltops, Blue-grey
Robins and Blue-faced Parrot-finches.
The roads around Ambua have improved and we travelled
to different locations each day. Some top spots we visited
several times and again birds of paradise were the most
spectacular birds around. Although we had rain each
afternoon we still did very well watching the fantastic
birds of this area.
Over the following days, between the lodge and Tari
Gap, with the help of legendary local birding guide
Joseph Tano, we saw adult males of Brown & Black
Sicklebills, King of Saxony Bird of Paradise, Stephanie's
& Ribbon-tailed Astrapias, Loria's Bird of Paradise
and Short-tailed Paradigalla. Seeing pictures of the
male sicklebills and astrapias with their very long
tails makes some people wonder how they can fly. Clearly
they are doing it rather well and it was great to watch
them flying through the forest canopy and across the
trails. It was also fascinating to observe the male
Black Sicklebill in partial display, raising his elongated
lateral pectoral plumes upwards like two arms. Other
birds observed included Chestnut Forest-rail, Great
Cuckoo-doves, Papuan Lorikeets, Black-bellied Cuckoo-shrikes,
Blue-capped Ifrita, Mountain Mouse-warbler, Papuan Grassbirds,
Black-breasted Boatbill, Canary Flycatcher, Black-cheeked
Robin, Regent & Hill Golden Whistlers, Black Sittellas,
Belford's, Grey-streaked, Black-throated & Red-collared
Honeyeaters, Fan-tailed Berrypeckers and Crested Berrypeckers.
Lesser Ground-robins were calling as usual but unfortunately
this year they remained out of sight. And a Papuan Boobook
that called near the lodge at night also did not respond
to tape playback.
Below the lodge, on the Tari road, we visited village
lands to observe males of both Blue and Superb Birds
of Paradise. These days a payment is made to the landowners
for doing this, so there is some incentive to keep the
birds alive. We had great views of these splendid birds,
plus Papuan King-parrot, Island Leaf-warbler and Marbled
Honeyeater.
Port
Moresby area
On the morning of 14 September we transferred by road
to Tari and then flew to Port Moresby.
In the afternoon we drove to the Pacific Adventist University,
which is a few kilometres out of Port Moresby. The area
is fully fenced and the birdlife here is fully protected.
As a result it has become a sanctuary. Around the ponds,
gardens and eucalyptus savanna we found a number of
Australian birds, such as Australasian Grebe, Little
Black & Little Pied Cormorants, Darter, Great, Intermediate,
Little & Cattle Egrets, Pied Heron, Rufous Night-heron,
Wandering Whistling-ducks, Pacific Black Ducks, Whistling
& Brahminy Kites, Purple Swamphens, Comb-crested
Jacanas, Masked Lapwings, Peaceful & Bar-shouldered
Doves, Torresian Imperial-Pigeon, Rainbow Lorikeet,
Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike, Rufous-banded Honeyeater,
White-breasted Wood-swallow and Torresian Crow, but
the highlights were the Spotted Whistling-ducks, Grey-headed
Mannikins and the Fawn-breasted Bowerbird attending
its bower. Ever present in the area are Pacific Swallows,
as are Singing Starling, Yellow-faced Myna, Brown Oriole,
Green Figbird and Black-backed Butcherbird, and we also
spotted a roosting pair of Papuan Frogmouths.
New
Britain Island
On previous tours, after arriving at Port Moresby from
Tari we had continued on to New Britain the same day,
and this had been our intention for this tour. However,
belated changes by Air Niugini to its flight schedules
meant that there was no longer an afternoon flight to
Hoskins, leaving us with no choice than to fly to New
Britain the following morning, 15 September. Our birding
time on New Britain was therefore reduced to 1.5 days,
from the planned two full days.
On arrival at Hoskins airport we transferred by road
to Walindi Plantation Resort, arriving there late in
the morning. Walindi is a delightful spot located amid
gardens and coconut groves next to the seashore. Primarily
a dive centre, it is beautifully designed and maintained.
An added attraction here is its friendly, extended-family
atmosphere. Around the resort we found Eastern Reef
Egret, Osprey, Brahminy Kites, some migrant shorebirds,
Collared Kingfishers, Northern Fantails, Shining Flycatcher,
New Britain Friarbirds, Ashy Honeyeaters, Metallic Starlings
and the Bismarck islands form of Torresian Crow (insularis,
perhaps a separate species).
In the afternoon we took a boat trip on Kimbe Bay and
visited Restorff Island. Here we saw 3 Nicobar Pigeons
in flight, many Island Imperial-pigeons and at least
2 handsome Beach Kingfishers, all of which are small-island
specialists, plus White-bellied Sea-eagle, though Melanesian
Scrubfowl was heard only. Surprisingly little was seen
in the way of seabirds, the only sightings being of
Brown Booby, Lesser Frigatebirds and Greater Crested
Tern. A pod of Bottlenose Dolphins and some flying fish
added entertainment to our boat ride.
The next morning we made an early start to drive through
a vast area of oil palm plantations to reach foothill
forest beyond the Kulu River. During the cool early
morning we walked along the road observing an abundance
of birdlife, including colourful and noisy Eastern Black-capped
Lories, Eclectus Parrots, Blue-eyed Cockatoos and Red-flanked
Lorikeets. Also Pacific Baza, Buff-faced Pygmy-parrot,
Red-knobbed Imperial-pigeons, the local yellow-tinted
form of Torresian Imperial-pigeon, Red-knobbed Fruit-doves,
the very distinctive Pied Coucal, Moustached Tree-swift,
Blyth's Hornbills, White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, a calling
male of the local form of Common Cicadabird (most likely
a separate species), Varied Trillers, Spangled Drongos,
Black Sunbird, and the distinctive Northern Melanesian
forms of both the Yellow-faced Myna (surely a separate
species, 'Melanesian Myna') and the Variable Goshawk.
Highlights of this morning included great views of the
often heard but seldom observed Finsch's Imperial-pigeon,
a New Britain Buzzard perched and in flight, a pair
of beautiful White-mantled Kingfishers, and a Bismarck
Kingfisher perched beside a stream.
In the afternoon, after another lengthy drive through
oil palm plantations, we visited the Garu Wildlife Management
Area - a protected area of primary and secondary rainforest.
Here we spent time in the forest interior where several
pairs of the handsome Black-headed Paradise-kingfisher
were heard, with one bird eventually giving clear views.
Melanesian Scrubfowls were also heard here and it was
interesting to examine some of their nest burrows, including
some with recent excavations. Additional birds observed
during the afternoon were Stephan's Doves, one of the
very few species that has adapted to the oil palms,
and views of a flock of delightful Buff-bellied Mannikins,
seen by the road through grass paddocks while driving
to and from our accommodation.
Varirata
National Park
Early the following morning we transferred to Hoskins
airport for our flight back to Port Moresby. On the
airfield were more flocks of Buff-bellied Mannikins
and some migrant shorebirds. More or less on schedule
we flew back to Port Moresby.
In the afternoon we again visited Varirata National
Park where we had excellent views of a roosting Marbled
Frogmouth and a delightful Barred Owlet-nightjar sitting
at the entrance of its roosting hollow. Also new to
our trip list were Shining Bronze-cuckoo, Yellow-eyed
& Black Cuckoo-shrikes, Elegant Honeyeater (a recent
split from Graceful) and Papuan Black Honeyeater. Other
highlights were a beautiful Brown-headed Paradise-kingfisher,
a fine Long-tailed Buzzard and close views of White-faced
Robin.
Early the next day we departed PNG, on schedule, for
our respective international destinations.
SUMMARY
Birding in PNG is quite different from Australia, as
birds and mammals are hunted for food. This has been
happening for ages, and the native fauna has adapted
to it by not trusting humans in almost all areas (one
exception is the Bismarck islands, including New Britain,
where hunting is less frequent). Normally one goes for
the specialties of each region and encounters other
birds en route, but there was a surprising lack of visible
small birds in most areas. That meant it was hard work
for all of us to get to the birds and to see them. Of
course rainforest is like that, you always hear more
than you see. In PNG the rainforest is much more diverse
and the canopy is much higher than in Australia.
One can also always expect showers, which does slow
down the birding. Walking trails were muddy and slippery
in some areas. However, mosquitoes, leeches and scrub-itch
mites were either non-existent or low in numbers in
all areas, which was greatly appreciated - except for
one new trail near Ekame Lodge where we encountered
an abundance of leeches.
Overall the tour was a success, without anyone falling
sick, without serious injuries or accidents, or other
mishaps. The local people we met were always helpful
and friendly, and the birds were definitely worth every
bit of effort.